Business & Finance Club - Fashion : To autumn (nearly), season of mists and mellow fruitfulness, reaper of the wicked sundress and emissary of fresh trends. Only “trends” is problematic as it signifies the fleeting – and this fashion phase is a volte face.
The chief missive is “timelessness” – not for the last time will the minimalism masterclasses of Phoebe Philo at Céline and Stella McCartney be cited. If you’re hunting for a pagoda-shouldered jacket, this is not the season. Rather, it’s time to put together decidedly un-starry pieces: a white blouse, buttoned to the throat, tautly tucked into slick wool trousers; a camel coat belted just so. Flashy has played swapsies with simple, and girlish Lolitas with all-woman Lollobrigidas.
Which walks us to the other autumn story: boobs and hips, and garbs that embrace said proportions – swishy circle skirts, saucy bustiers – are cool. Even hip glossy LOVE celebrates “all things feminine” in its new issue, gushing how “during Fashion Week, a more voluptuous woman was sauntering her way into the spotlight: a new feminine silhouette, a full-blooming figure whose roots lay back in the Fifties”.
Pared down versus in-your-face curves, minimalism versus maximalism: foes set for an epic autumnal wardrobe fisticuff, right? Only if they didn’t share a collective motto, Strictly for Grown-ups – a rallying cry that unites other visual spars like neutrals vs leopard prints, and trousers vs midi-skirts. The real war? Streamlining your buys for the new season: charge forth with this battle plan.
THE KEY INVESTMENT
Squeezed out by brashy, power-shouldered blazers for yonks, the coat returns as the key cover-up. No-brainer to us that it’s a must-buy for winter – but – jolt to the system – designers actually agree, with coats doing the honours by opening many a show. More choice for us, then.
A mannish Crombie is fail-safe, sitting well with the new purism, as is the military overcoat. Collarless also rolls, but, as the style tends to be generous around the waist (“egg-shaped” hovers in the mind), cinch in with a skinny belt, a stylistic trick which also keeps it modern.
Outerwear has always been one of Joseph’s strong points – and it excels now. Double-breasted, funnel-necked, fur-lined, lambskin, leather, wool – all are stamped with a take-me-to-the-till label. Which you’ll probably do, despite their hefty price tags. Worth it, though, as these coats will serve years down the line.
THE COLOUR PALETTE
It’s that minimalist riff again with black, white, navy, camel and grey a-gogo. Such a prim spectrum screams for a frisson byway of stroke-me fabrics – try a smoky leather skirt with a chiffon blouse, or a cashmere knit with slacks. Still too funereal Queen Vic, the post-Albert years? A smear of ox-blood red – check out Cos’s pencil skirt – or shot of turquoise-green will act as live wire, partnering camel especially well.
THE SILHOUETTE
Fashion hearts curves – see bosoms at Louis Vuitton and pert bottoms wiggling down Dolce & Gabbana, essential fillers for those wasp-waisted silhouette-of-the-season Fifties dresses. The easiest entry is via a full skirt – something like Betty Jackson’s calf-hitting wool skirt is ideal - which frees your options up top: twinsets (Dee-lightfully Sandy in Grease), silky blouses, or a snug sweater-and-shirt combo like at Dries Van Noten. Belt up to emphasise the fit-and-flare shape.Should you wish for a more subtle yet spot-on rendering of the silhouette, that A-line contour also materialises in those high-waisted wide-legged or boot-cut trousers.
THE FABRICS
Shearling is the textural standout, and a leather jacket lined with the stuff reworks the trusty biker for the new season –it was ubiquitous atop many an oversized collar at Burberry. Expect plenty of high-street tributes – the best can be found at Oasis and Warehouse. Given its bulk, keep volume minimal below the waist.
Lace, meanwhile, is still showing its face, two years on from Prada’s focal collection, and still irritating with its what-the-hell-do-you-wear-under-it snag that isn’t a) just a bra and b) just bare skin (and don’t say slip - it doesn’t look right). Conclusion: who knows, so the next best thing is a lace-hemmed or lace-spliced something, like Oasis’s jumper.
THE PRINTS
Memories of the (Bet) Lynchian take on leopard endure, but spots can be high-brow if you take the impressionistic route. Subtle hints of animal, like Gant’s pussy-bow blouse, or House of Fraser’s smudgy black and brown frock, is infinitely classier than the full whack.
Autumn wouldn’t be autumn without a riff on the classic country look, and tweedy checks abound. They looked fresh in Jil Sander’s amber and navy long-sleeved minidresses, but something about Daks’s on-the-knee plaid kilt strangely appeals. Teamed with brogues and a sweater, it nails that bookish Bloomsbury bohemian sensibility filtering through as an aside to minimalism.